- Alcove walls must be plumb, straight and in square, dry and clean. Make sure the wall panels are clean and dry.
- To prevent corner deflection, it is recommended to install a vertical piece of 3/4" cleat stock in each corner. The cleat stock should be positioned on top of the tub or shower pan flange and secured into alcove corners. The length of the cleats should be: 64.5"
- Test fit all panels in alcove prior to installation.
- Make sure you are using adhesive that specifies it can be used on ABS plastic. We recommend Liquid Nail.
- Install either side panel first. Apply a bead of adhesive every 4"-6" and one around the entire perimeter of the panel. Position panel with bottom edge resting on the shower pan deck, overlapping the shower pan flanges, and the back edge resting against the back wall. Using firm hand pressure or wall roller, smooth out the entire panel against the sidewall. Pull panel away from wall. At this stage only, remove the release paper from the foam tape and re position the panel. Once again, use firm hand pressure or a hand roller to smooth out the entire panel against the wall.
- Install the opposite side panel in the same manner as instructed in Step 5.
- Apply a bead of siliconized caulk into the vertical grooves of both installed side panels. Be sure caulks specifics it can be used with ABS!
- Install back panel by applying adhesive to the back panel in the same manner as the the side panels; not forgetting attention to the soap dish cavity. Setting panel on top of the shower pan, insert one edge of the back panel in the vertical joint of the side panel. Set panel on top of shower pan deck and against the wall. Using a firm hand, or a wall roller, smooth out the entire panel against the wall. Pull panel away from wall. A this time, remove the release paper form the foam tape and reset the panel by inserting both edges into vertical joints of side panels. With bottom edge of panel resting on shower pan deck, press the panel to the wall, moving from the middle to the outside edge. Using firm hand pressure or roller, smooth out the panel against the wall.
- After shower pan and surround have been cleaned, insure that the installation is watertight. Remember, caulk every seam.
Trailer John's Mobile Home Help Blog
Trailer John from Ashvillemobilehomes.com shares some of his wisdom and musings on the manufactured home industry. Post often relate to mobile home repair.
Saturday, May 12, 2012
Installing the 3-PC Kinro Composites Surround
Use these guide lines to help you install the 3-PC Kinro Composites Surround in your mobile home.
Thursday, May 3, 2012
How to Measure Mobile Home Screens
Spring is here (feels like summer in Alabama). You will need screens to open your windows and let fresher air in. If you need a few replacement screens for your mobile home windows, we can help! But before you order, you need to be sure you measure correctly! Measuring is easy...
Remove the screen first, and measure the entire screen (frame and all):
Remove the screen first, and measure the entire screen (frame and all):
Looks like a 13 1/2" to me!
If the screen is not present:
- Measure the hole where the screen used to be.
- Take off .25" to give yourself some wiggle room.
- Some windows have a .25" lip holding the top frame in place. Allow for that if possible.
Thursday, February 23, 2012
Keeping an Exterior Door in Square.
If you own a mobile home, you've probably had a reason to replace a window or a door. With everything else, there are many right ways and wrong ways to do something. This post deals exclusively with Mobile Home Exterior Doors, not Combination Doors.
This is an issue even for the author. The last exterior door I replaced was out of square. The door would pop open, and shutting it was difficult. It was pulling one way, rather than opening and closing smoothly. Many things can affect the squareness of the door..
- Offset Studs
- Rotten Studs
- If the home has set (USE A LEVEL)
- The order in which screws are screwed into the frame...
Regarding the last one, try this:
- Check the studs and floor with a level. Sit door.
- Place one screw beside the hinges on one side (opposite of the door knob)
- Install the door knob and open and shut the door.
- If the door pulls or pops, make your adjustments till the door operates smoothly.
- Screw in the frame around the door knob.
- Place reset of the screws.
Wednesday, February 1, 2012
Weatherizing your Mobile Home - Insulating Water Heaters!?
People who own older homes (70s models) will find this blog post more useful.
Every opening, seam, utility and light bulb represents a potential energy drain. Even curtains have an impact
on your heating and cooling cost! Water heaters are often over looked.
In older model homes, the water heater was only accessible outside through a metal door.
The only thing between your water heater and the cold is a metal door!
The only thing between your water heater and the cold is a metal door!
As such, water heaters represent a potential energy waste. In the winter, the elements have to kick on
more often to keep the water warm, costing more in electricity. Purchasing a newer more efficient water heater won't fix the problem. You need to insulate the water heater.
Insulate the water heater? What magic is this? Isn't my water heater insulated already!?
Short answer: Yes.
Long answer: Yes, but you can make it better. Check out:
Hot Water Heater Insulation Jacket
The insulation jacket works just like a..jacket. It is an additional barrier between the elements are your
hot water. Just like in the snow, layering helps!
Monday, January 30, 2012
Flair-It Shut Off to a Flexible Hose (correct way)
My previous post had been on a way to go from a Flair-It Shut Off to a flexible hose. It involved cutting off the nipple of one side of the shut off, to leave only threads.
We'll that's an extra step now! Check out the item below:
Remember, hard work pays off. But smart work pays for itself.
We'll that's an extra step now! Check out the item below:
Find it here @ Ashvillemobilehomes.com
Remember, hard work pays off. But smart work pays for itself.
Thursday, January 19, 2012
Rigging a Pex Shut Off to work with a flexible Supply Hose
Have you ever installed a shut off under a sink? It's not fun. The angle is painful, and the supply lines probably aren't aligned with the faucet supply lines. Pex Pipe is not flexible over short distances.
You have a spark of inspiration, and decide to use a flexible 1/2" hose to bridge the gap...and then find
out that you can't hook the flexible hose to the pex shut off.
What do you do? It just won't fit. Look at the picture below. Cut the nipple off at the black line with a hacksaw. Clear any sheared plastic bits, and apply a layer or two of teflon tape!
And there you have it. A Pex Shut Off working with a female flexible hose!
Tuesday, January 17, 2012
Ashville Mobile Homes Newest Employee - Chewy!
Ashville Mobile Homes Newest Employee - Chewy!
This magnificent cat you see pictured came to us as a little flea covered kitten who lived at a local Huddle House. He crawled under Trailer John's truck and rode back to work with him.
He is 7 months old now, and spends his time biting customers and getting belly rubs from the staff. When not biting customers (hence the name Chewy), he spends his time sleeping near the front desk, snoozing in an office chair on a towel, napping on the counter and eating.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)